Isabella L. Bird

Form and Colour - A Windy Capital - Eccentricities in House Roofs.

HAKODATE, YEZO, August 13, 1878

Pleasant Prospects - A Miserable Disappointment - Caught in a Typhoon - A Dense Fog - Alarmist Rumours - A Welcome at Tokiyo - The Last of the Mutineers.

H. B. M.'s LEGATION, YEDO, September 21.

A Japanese Idyll - Musical Stillness -My Rooms - Floral Decorations- -Kanaya and his Household - Table Equipments.

KANAYA'S, NIKKO, June 15.

The Effect of a Chicken - Poor Fare - Slow Travelling - Objects of Interest - Kak'ke - The Fatal Close - A Great Fire - Security of the Kuras.

SHINGOJI, July 21.

Lunch in Public - A Grotesque Accident - Police Inquiries - Man or Woman? - A Melancholy Stare - A Vicious Horse - An Ill-favoured Town - A Disappointment - A Torii.

Ito's Delinquency - "Missionary Manners" - A Predicted Failure.

HAKODATE, YEZO.

Fine Weather - Cremation in Japan - The Governor of Tokiyo - An Awkward Question - An Insignificant Building - Economy in Funeral Expenses - Simplicity of the Cremation Process - The Last of Japan.

H. B. M.'s LEGATION, YEDO, December 18.

The Beauties of Nikko - The Burial of Iyeyasu - The Approach to the Great Shrines - The Yomei Gate - Gorgeous Decorations - Simplicity of the Mausoleum - The Shrine of Iyemitsu - Religious Art of Japan and India - An Earthquake - Beauties of Wood-carving.

KANAYA'S, NIKKO, June 21.

I have been at Nikko for nine days, and am therefore entitled to use the word "Kek'ko!"

A Casual Invitation - A Ludicrous Incident - Politeness of a Policeman - A Comfortless Sunday - An Outrageous Irruption - A Privileged Stare.

At a wayside tea-house, soon after leaving Rokugo in kurumas, I met the same courteous and agreeable young doctor who was stationed at Innai during the prevalence of kak'ke, and he invited me to visit the hospital at Kubota, of which he is junior physician, and told Ito of a restaurant at which "foreign food" can be obtained - a pleasant prospect, of which he is always reminding me.

A Lovely Sunset - An Official Letter - A "Front Horse" - Japanese Courtesy - The Steam Ferry - Coolies Abscond - A Team of Savages - A Drove of Horses - Floral Beauties - An Unbeaten Track - A Ghostly Dwelling - Solitude and Eeriness.

GINSAINOMA, YEZO, August 17.