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Isabella L. Bird

Fine Weather - Cremation in Japan - The Governor of Tokiyo - An Awkward Question - An Insignificant Building - Economy in Funeral Expenses - Simplicity of the Cremation Process - The Last of Japan.

H. B. M.'s LEGATION, YEDO, December 18.

The Beauties of Nikko - The Burial of Iyeyasu - The Approach to the Great Shrines - The Yomei Gate - Gorgeous Decorations - Simplicity of the Mausoleum - The Shrine of Iyemitsu - Religious Art of Japan and India - An Earthquake - Beauties of Wood-carving.


I have been at Nikko for nine days, and am therefore entitled to use the word "Kek'ko!"

Lunch in Public - A Grotesque Accident - Police Inquiries - Man or Woman? - A Melancholy Stare - A Vicious Horse - An Ill-favoured Town - A Disappointment - A Torii.

A Lovely Sunset - An Official Letter - A "Front Horse" - Japanese Courtesy - The Steam Ferry - Coolies Abscond - A Team of Savages - A Drove of Horses - Floral Beauties - An Unbeaten Track - A Ghostly Dwelling - Solitude and Eeriness.


A Japanese Pack-Horse and Pack-Saddle - Yadoya and Attendant - A Native Watering-Place - The Sulphur Baths - A "Squeeze."


A Casual Invitation - A Ludicrous Incident - Politeness of a Policeman - A Comfortless Sunday - An Outrageous Irruption - A Privileged Stare.

At a wayside tea-house, soon after leaving Rokugo in kurumas, I met the same courteous and agreeable young doctor who was stationed at Innai during the prevalence of kak'ke, and he invited me to visit the hospital at Kubota, of which he is junior physician, and told Ito of a restaurant at which "foreign food" can be obtained - a pleasant prospect, of which he is always reminding me.

The Harmonies of Nature - A Good Horse - A Single Discord - A Forest - Aino Ferrymen - "Les Puces! Les Puces!" - Baffled Explorers - Ito's Contempt for Ainos - An Aino Introduction.


Peaceful Monotony - A Japanese School - A Dismal Ditty - Punishment - A Children's Party - A Juvenile Belle - Female Names - A Juvenile Drama- -Needlework - Calligraphy - Arranging Flowers - Kanaya - Daily Routine- -An Evening's Entertainment - Planning Routes - The God-shelf.

IRIMICHI, Nikko, June 23.

My peacefully monotonous life here is nearly at an end. The people are so quiet and kindly, though almost too still, and I have learned to know something of the externals of village life, and have become quite fond of the place.

The Necessity of Firmness - Perplexing Misrepresentations - Gliding with the Stream - Suburban Residences - The Kubota Hospital - A Formal Reception - The Normal School.

KUBOTA, July 23.

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