Maghreb

Face and Produce of the Empire, natural and artificial.

Mequinez.

The mountains (the principal of which are Mount Diur, Mount Cotta, near the city of Larache, the mountain commonly called Ape's Hill, between Tangiers and Ceuta, and that remarkable ridge called Mount Atlas) contain mines of gold, silver, copper, and tin.

Conducted to the Governor - Medical Hint from his Secretary - Governor recovers - Larache - Its Harbour, Shipping, and Inhabitants.

Larache, February 1806.

Practice of Physic - Astrology - Poetry - Entertainment given by the Author to the Moors - Their Astonishment at the Effects of Electricity.

Mequinez.

Excursion to Mamora, and thence to Salee - Friendly Reception by the Governor of the latter - Rabat - Tower of Hassen - Shella - Mansooria - Alcasser - Quiber - Its Socco, or Marketplace.

Larache, 1805.

Prevalent Diseases - Abuse of Stimulants - Medicinal Well - Sorcery - Hydrophobia.

Mequinez.

Leave Larache with an Escort - Curious Custom on returning from Mecca - Arrive at Tetuan.

Tetuan.

His Excellency the Governor of Larache being perfectly recovered, I took my departure from that city. For the sake of novelty, I proposed returning to Gibraltar, by this route, rather than by Tangiers. I obtained a letter of recommendation to Sidy Ash-Ash, and was accompanied by a strong guard, provided with a tent, and all other necessaries for the journey.

I

LEAVING TANGIER

To step on board a steamer in a Spanish port, and three hours later to land in a country without a guide-book, is a sensation to rouse the hunger of the repletest sight-seer.

I

VOLUBILIS

One day before sunrise we set out from Rabat for the ruins of Roman Volubilis.

I

THE FIRST VISION

Many-walled Fez rose up before us out of the plain toward the end of the day.

I

THE WAY THERE

There are countless Arab tales of evil Djinns who take the form of sandstorms and hot winds to overwhelm exhausted travellers.