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Inducement for the Journey - Arrive at Tangiers - Its History - Situation - Inhabitants - Military - Governor - Fortifications - Subterraneous Passage - Socco, or Market - Adjacent Villas - Invited to Larache.

Tangiers, January 12th, 1806.

Depart for Morocco - Roads dreadfully infested, by Robbers - A Tribe of aboriginal Freebooters - Description of Morocco - Filth of the common People - Tobacco disallowed - Justice of the Emperor.


Sketch of the History of Morocco - Road from Tangiers - Simplicity of the Peasants - Moors hospitable - Arrive at a Village - The ancient Zelis - Public Accommodations - Much infested with Vermin - Arzilla, a ruinous walled Town - Arrive at Larache.

Larache, January 1806.

Before I proceed to give you the particulars of my journey to this place, I shall fulfil tho promise I made you in my last.

Moorish Character - Form of Devotion - Meals - Revenue - Poll-tax on the Jews - Royal Carriages - Ostrich-riding - Public Schools - Watch-dogs.


Conducted to the Governor - Medical Hint from his Secretary - Governor recovers - Larache - Its Harbour, Shipping, and Inhabitants.

Larache, February 1806.

Face and Produce of the Empire, natural and artificial.


The mountains (the principal of which are Mount Diur, Mount Cotta, near the city of Larache, the mountain commonly called Ape's Hill, between Tangiers and Ceuta, and that remarkable ridge called Mount Atlas) contain mines of gold, silver, copper, and tin.


by Edith Wharton


Having begun my book with the statement that Morocco still lacks a guide-book, I should have wished to take a first step toward remedying that deficiency.



To step on board a steamer in a Spanish port, and three hours later to land in a country without a guide-book, is a sensation to rouse the hunger of the repletest sight-seer.



One day before sunrise we set out from Rabat for the ruins of Roman Volubilis.

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