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Matilda Betham-Edwards - Holidays in Eastern France
Paris, architect and designer to Louis XVI., is a very rich one and there is also a cabinet of medals
numbering ten thousand pieces.
Besancon also boasts of several learned societies, one of which founded in the interests of scientific
inquiry so far back as 1840, "La Societe d'Emulation du Doubs," numbers five hundred and odd
members. One of the most interesting features in the ancient city is its connection with Spain, and what
has been termed the golden age of Franche-Comte under the Emperor Charles the Fifth. It will be
remembered that Franche-Comte formed a part of the dowry of Margaret, daughter of the Emperor
Maximilian of Austria, and it was under her protectorate during her life-time and reverted to her nephew
Charles the Fifth on his accession to the crowns of Spain, Austria, the Low Countries, and Burgundy. His
minister, Perrenot de Granvelle, born at Ornans, infused new intellectual and artistic life into the place he
ruled as a prince. His stately Italian palace, still one of the handsomest monuments of Besancon, was
filled with pictures, statues, books, and precious manuscripts, and the stimulus thus given to literature
and the fine arts was followed by a goodly array of artists, thinkers, and writers. The learned Gilbert
Cousin, secretary of Erasmus, Prevost, pupil of Raffaelle, Goudinel of Besancon, the master of
Palestrina, creator of popular music, the lettered family of Chifflet, and many others, shed lustre on this
splendid period; while not only Besancon but Lons-le-Saunier, Arbois, and other small towns bear
evidence of Spanish influence on architecture and the arts. In the most out of the way places may be
found chefs-d'oeuvre dating from the protectorate of Margaret and the Emperor, and it is such
scattered treasure-trove that makes travelling in out of the way places in Franche-Comte so fruitful to the
art-lover in various fields.
The most salient feature of social life at Besancon is its Catholicism, the place literally swarming with
priests, and soldiers, to the great detriment of public morality. The Protestants, nevertheless, hold their
own here, and even gain ground, witness the Protestant Church established within the last ten years at
Arbois by the Consistory of Besancon. They have also succeeded in founding a hospital here for the sick
and aged poor, which is the greatest possible boon. Up till that time, this section of the community had
been received in the municipal hospital under the management of the nuns, who, of course, did all in
their power to worry their patients into Catholicism. We know what happens when a hospital is under the
charge of nuns, and it can easily be understood that many of these poor people preferred to embrace a
crucifix than forego their broth when half dead of exhaustion. Some would go through a mock
conversion, others would endure a martyrdom till the last; but the position alike of weak and obstinate
was unbearable. Now there is a home, not only for the indigent sick and aged, but for those who can
afford to pay a small sum for being well looked after; and it is delightful to witness the home-like ease
and comfort everywhere. The poor people welcomed their pastor, who accompanied me on my visit, not
only as a priest but as a friend, and it was easy to see how they enjoyed a little talk with Madame, and the
prattle of the children.
The large shady hospital garden overlooking the town is much resorted to in fine weather, and
everywhere we found cheerful faces. It is hardly necessary to say that this admirable work needs money.
The Catholic clergy, of course, regard any step in advance on the part of the Protestants with abhorrence,
and do a little bit of persecution whenever opportunity offers. Thus, as perhaps may not be known to all
my readers, the parish burial-ground in France is open by the law to all sects and denominations
indiscriminately; Protestant, Jew, Mahometan, or Brahmin may here find a resting-place in spite of M. le
Cure. Such is the law, and an admirable law it is, but the law means one thing to a Catholic and another
to a Protestant There is no Protestant burial-ground in Besancon or the neighbouring villages, so that
everyone is buried in the town and parish cemetery; but, as mayors of small country towns and villages
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