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Matilda Betham-Edwards - Holidays in Eastern France
part, originally appeared in "Frazer's Magazine," 1878.
In a former work, "Western France," I treated of a part of France which was ultra-Catholic; in this one I
was chiefly among the more Protestant districts of the whole country, and it may be interesting to many
to compare the two.
HOLIDAYS IN EASTERN FRANCE.
CHAPTER I. THE VALLEY OF THE MARNE.
How delicious to escape from the fever heat and turmoil of Paris during the Exhibition to the green banks
and sheltered ways of the gently undulating Marne! With what delight we wake up in the morning to the
noise, if noise it can be called, of the mower's scythe, the rustle of acacia leaves, and the notes of the
stock-dove, looking back as upon a nightmare to the horn of the tramway conductor, and the perpetual
grind of the stone-mason's saw. Yes! to quit Paris at a time of tropic heat, and nestle down in some
country resort is, indeed, like exchanging Dante's lower circle for Paradise. The heat has followed us
here, but with a screen of luxuriant foliage ever between us and the burning blue sky, and with a breeze
rippling the leaves always, no one need complain.
With the cocks and the hens, and the birds and the bees, we are all up and stirring betimes; there are
dozens of cool nooks and corners if we like to spend the morning out of doors, and do not feel
enterprising enough to set out on an exploring expedition by diligence or rail. After the midday meal
everyone takes a siesta, as a matter of course, waking up between four and five o'clock for a ramble;
wherever we go we find lovely prospects. Quiet little rivers and canals winding in between lofty lines of
poplars, undulating pastures and amber cornfields, picturesque villages crowned by a church spire here
and there, wide sweeps of highly cultivated land interspersed with rich woods, vineyards, orchards and
gardens - all these make up the scenery familiarized to us by some of the most characteristic of French
painters.
Just such tranquil rural pictures have been portrayed over and over again by Millet, Corot, Daubigny, and
in this very simplicity often lies their charm. No costume or grandiose outline is here as in Brittany, no
picturesque poverty, no poetic archaisms; all is rustic and pastoral, but with the rusticity and pastoralness
of every day.
We are in the midst of one of the wealthiest and best cultivated regions of France moreover, and, when
we penetrate below the surface, we find that in manner and customs, as well as dress and outward
appearance, the peasant and agricultural population, generally, differ no little from their remote
country-people, the Bretons. In this famous cheese-making country, the "Fromage de Brie" being the
speciality of these rich dairy farms, there is no superstition, hardly a trace of poverty, and little that can
be called poetic. The people are wealthy, laborious, and progressive. The farmers' wives, however hard
they may work at home, wear the smartest of Parisian bonnets and gowns when paying visits. I was
going to say when at church, but nobody does go here!
It is a significant fact that in the fairly well to do educated district, where newspapers are read by the
poorest, where well-being is the rule, poverty the exception, the church is empty on Sunday, and the
priest's authority is nil. The priests may preach against abstinence from church in the pulpits, and
may lecture their congregation in private, no effect is thereby produced. Church-going has become out of
date among the manufacturers of Brie cheese. They amuse themselves on Sundays by taking walks with
their children, the pater-familias bathes in the river, the ladies put on their gala dresses and pay
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