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Matilda Betham-Edwards - Holidays in Eastern France
expulsion of the Moors in 1610, but was introduced in various parts of France by some of the exiled
artists, and it may be said to have died out in France about the end of the last century.
Senor Riano's handbook to the Spanish collection in the South Kensington Museum gives a list with
details of the specimens there exhibited, numbering upwards of twenty panels and borders for furniture.
These are chiefly seventeenth century work-tables, exceedingly interesting and valuable. All lovers of
art, furniture, and decoration generally can but echo M. Davilliers' hope that the art of painting and
stamping on leather may be ere long revived at Cordova.
So much for the artistic treat in store for those art-lovers who find their way to the Chateau of Ferrieres,
where none will fail to add to his previous stock of knowledge. Art-lovers cannot study the exquisite
design, elaborate workmanship, and splendid materials of the furniture, decoration, and general fittings
up of such a palace without some sadness. How little that is new and modern can here be compared with
the old, whether we regard mere carpentry detail or solidity! This is strikingly illustrated in the Japanese
cloisonne work of which there are some choice specimens.
Two refinements of civilization will amuse the stranger; the first is a railway in miniature from kitchens
to dining-rooms, by means of which the dishes are conveyed to the latter with the utmost possible
dispatch. The temper indeed of these happy diners should be ineffably serene, considering that they can
never be ruffled by soups or fish coming to table one degree less hot than the most epicurean palate could
desire. Luxury can go no farther, unless, which may be invented some day, a patent appetite and
digesting apparatus were supplied, enabling host and guests to sit down every day to the feasts spread
before them with undiminished relish and perfect impunity.
The second amusing, or rather surprising, fact is that of the luxurious, though I venture to say somewhat
floridly decorated ladies smoking room? Were we dreaming? Or was it our informant who was but half
awake or in error? I believe not, and that the elegant and princely Chateau de Ferrieres thus
acknowledges the fact of lady smokers!
CHAPTER II. NOISIEL: THE CITY OF CHOCOLATE.
When not disposed to go far a-field in search of pleasure or instruction, we find plenty to interest us close
at hand. Even in this quiet little village there is always something going on, a fete patronale, a
ball, a prize-distribution, or other local event. The Ecole Communale for both boys and girls has just
closed for the holidays, so last Sunday - the season in July - the prizes were given away with much
ceremony. A tent was decorated with tricolour flags, evergreens, and garlands, the village band escorted
thither the Mayor and Corporation, marching them in with a spirited air, the entire community having
turned out to see. I had already witnessed a prize-distribution in the heart of Anjou, but how different
from this! Here at Couilly it was difficult to believe that the fashionable Parisian toilettes around us
belonged to the wives of small farmers, who all the week were busy in their dairies, whilst the young
ladies of all ages, from five to fifteen, their daughters, might have appeared at the Lady Mayoress's ball
at Guildhall, so smart were they in their white muslin frocks and blue and pink sashes and hair-knots. A
few mob-caps among the old women and blue blouses among the men were seen, but the assemblage, as
a whole, might be called a fashionable one - whilst at Anjou, exactly the same class presented the
homeliest appearance, all the female part of it wearing white coiffes and plain stuff gowns, the
men blue blouses and sabots. Nor was the difference less striking in other respects. These sons and
daughters of rich tenant-farmers, peasant proprietors, or even day-labourers, are far ahead of the young
people in Anjou, and each would be considered a wonder in benighted Brittany. They are, in fact, quite
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