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Matilda Betham-Edwards - East of Paris
A train that crawls has this advantage, we can see everything by the way, villages, crops, and methods of
cultivation. The landscape soon changes. The familiar characteristics of the wine country disappear.
Instead of vine-clad hills, nurseries of young plants grafted on American stocks, and vineyard after
vineyard in rich maturity, we now see hop gardens, colza fields, and wide pastures. Here and there we
obtain a glimpse of some walled-in farmhouse, recalling the granges of our own Isle of Wight.
Alongside the railway runs the canal, that important waterway connecting the Seine with the Saone; but
the Saone itself, Mr. Hamerton's favourite river, is not seen till we reach our destination.
The little town of St. Jean de Losne, although unknown to English readers, is one of the most historic of
France. No other, indeed, boasts of more honourable renown. As Jeanne d'Arc had done just two
centuries before, St. Jean de Losne saved the country in 1636. When the Imperial forces under Galas
attempted the occupation of Burgundy, the dauntless townsfolk long held the enemy at bay and
compelled final retreat. After generations profited by this heroism. Until the great year of 1789, the town,
by royal edict, enjoyed complete immunity from taxation. On the outbreak of the Revolution, with true
patriotic spirit, the citizens surrendered those privileges, of their own free will sharing the public burdens.
The first sight that meets the eye on entering St. Jean de Losne is the monument erected in
commemoration of the siege. "Better late than never," is a proverb applicable to public as well as private
affairs of conscience.
A little farther, and we reach the church of St. Jean. It contains a magnificent pulpit, carved from a single
block of rich red marble, the niches ornamented with charming statuettes of the apostles. Close by is the
Hotel de Ville, in which are some interesting historic relics. As I passed through the courtyard, I saw an
odd sight. One might have fancied that a second Imperial army threatened a siege, and that the townsfolk
were laying in stores. The pavement was piled with bread and meat, whilst butchers and bakers were
busily engaged in dividing these into portions, authorities, municipal, military and police, looking on.
I learned that these rations were for the regiments quartered in the town during the autumn manoeuvres.
Every day such distributions take place; in country places the troops have recourse to the peasants, very
often being treated as guests. A young friend, serving his three years, told me that nowhere had he found
country folk more hospitable than in the Cote d'Or. No sooner did the soldiers make their appearance in a
village, than forth came the inhabitants to welcome them, officers being carried off to chateaux, men by
twos and threes to the home of cure or small owner. "Not a peasant," he said, "but would bring up a
bottle of good wine from his cellar, and often after dinner we would get up a dance out of doors. On the
saddle sometimes from two in the morning till twelve at noon, the kind reception and the jollity of the
evening made up for the hardship and fatigue. We have just had several days of bad weather, and had to
sleep on straw in barns and outhouses, wherever indeed shelter was to be had. Not one of us ever lost
heart or temper; we remained gay as larks all the time."
An hour's railway journey from St. Jean de Losne takes the traveller to Lons-le-Saulnier, beautifully
situated at the foot of the Jura range on the threshold of wild and romantic scenery.
A decade had not robbed this little town of its old-world look familiar to me, but meantime a new
Lons-le-Saulnier had sprung up. Since my first visit a handsome bathing establishment has been built,
with casino, concert-room, and all the other essentials of an inland watering-place. The waters are
especially recommended for skin affections, gout, and rheumatism. Formerly the mineral springs of
Lons, as the townsfolk lazily call the place, were chiefly frequented by residents and near neighbours.
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