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Matilda Betham-Edwards - East of Paris
picturesque architecture, richest and most varied foliage, ash and weeping willow mingling with
deeper-hued beech and alder. It is difficult, almost impossible, to describe the charm of this riverside
scenery. In one passage of his novel, Balzac compares the view to the scenery of an opera, and in very
truth every feature forms a whole so harmonious as to suggest artistic arrangement.
Nature and accident have effected the happiest possible combination of wood, water and building stone.
Nothing is here to mar the complete picture. Grandly the cathedral-like church and fine old chateau stand
out to-day against the brilliant sky, soft grey stone and dark brown making subdued harmonies. Formerly
Nemours was surrounded by woods, hence its name. People are said to attain here a very great age, life
being tranquil and the nature of the people somewhat lethargic.
Amongst the more energetic inhabitants are a lady dentist and her sister, who between them do a first rate
business.
French peasants never dream of indulging in false teeth; such an idea would never enter the head of even
the richest. But an aching tooth interferes with the labours of the farm, and must be got rid of at any cost.
This young lady chirurgien et dentiste, such is the name figuring on her door plate, is not only
most expert in using the forceps, but is attractive and pretty.
Her charges are two francs for a visit or operation; in partnership with her is a sister who does the
accounts, and as nuns and sisters of charity unprovided with certificates are no longer allowed to draw
teeth, act as midwives and cut off limbs, country doctors and dentists of either sex have now a fair
chance.
No town in this part of France suffered more during the German invasion. The municipal authorities had
at first decided upon making a bold stand, thus endeavouring to check the enemy's advance on Paris.
Differences of opinion arose, prudential counsels prevailed, and it was through a mistaken order that a
Prussian detachment was attacked near the town. The consequences were appalling. The station was
burned to the ground, enormous contributions in money and material were exacted from the town, some
of the authorities were made to travel on the railways with the invaders, and others were carried off to
remote fortresses of Brandenburg and there kept as prisoners for nine months.
The account of all these incidents, written by a victim, may be consulted in a volume of the town library.
If people frequently attain the age of a hundred in Nemours, as I was assured, it is rather due to placid
temperament than to intellectual torpor. The town possesses learned societies, and a member of its
archaeological association has published a book of great local interest and value, viz: - "Nemours, Temps
Geologiques, Temps Prehistoriques, Temps Historiques, par E. Doigneau, Membre de la Societe
Archeologique de Seine-et-Marne, Ancien Vice President de la section de Fontainebleau, Paris."
Strange to say, although this neighbourhood has offered a rich field for prehistoric research, Nemours as
yet possesses no museum, I do verily believe the first French town of any size I have ever found in
France without one at least in embryo. For the cyclist the run from Bourron to Nemours is delightful, on
the hottest day in the year spinning along broad well-wooded roads, with lovely perspectives from time
to time.
CHAPTER IX. LA CHARITE-SUR-LOIRE.
From Bourron, in September, 1900, I journeyed with a friend to La Charite, a little town four hours off.
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