|
J. W. Powell - Canyons of the Colorado
vegetation on it, but here and there a lichen is found. And yet, so long ago was it poured from the depths,
that where ashes and cinders have collected in a few places, some huge cedars have grown. Xear the
crater the frozen waves of black basalt are rent with deep fissures, transverse to the direction, of the flow.
Then we ride through a cedar forest up a long ascent, until we come to cliffs of columnar basalt. Here we
tie our horses and prepare for a climb among the columns. Through crevices we work, till at last we are
on the mountain, a thousand acres of pine laud spread out before us, gently rising to the other edge. There
are two peaks on the mountain. We walk two miles to the foot of the one looking to be the highest, then a
long, hard climb to its summit. What a view is before us! A vision of glory! Peaks of lava all around
below us. The Vermilion Cliffs to the north, with their splendor of colors; the Pine Valley Mountains to
the northwest, clothed in mellow, perspective haze; unnamed mountains to the southwest, towering over
canyons bottomless to my peering gaze, like chasms to nadir hell; and away beyond, the San Francisco
Mountains, lifting their black heads into the heavens. We find our way down the mountain, reaching the
trail made by the pack train just at dusk, and follow it through the dark until we see the camp fire - a
welcome sight.
Two days more, and we are at Pipe Spring; one day, and we are at Kanab. Eight miles above the town is
a canyon, on either side of which is a group of lakes. Four of these are in caves where the sun never
shines. By the side of one of these I sit, at my feet the crystal waters, of which I may drink at will.
CHAPTER XIII. OVER THE RIVER.
It is our intention to explore a route from Kanab to the Colorado River at the mouth of the Paria, and, if
successful in this undertaking, to cross the river and proceed to Tusayan, and ultimately to Santa Fe, New
Mexico. We propose to build a flatboat for the purpose of ferrying over the river, and have had the
lumber necessary for that purpose hauled from St. George to Kanab. From here to the mouth of the Paria
it must be packed on the backs of mules; Captain Bishop and Mr. Graves are to take charge of this work,
while with Mr. Hamblin I explore the Kaibab Plateau.
September 24 - -To-day we are ready for the start. The mules are packed and away goes our train
of lumber, rations, and camping equipage. The Indian trail is at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs. Pushing
on to the east with Mr. Hamblin for a couple of hours in the early morning, we reach the mouth of a dry
canyon, which comes down through the cliffs. Instead of a narrow canyon we find an open valley from
one fourth to one half a mile in width. On rare occasions a stream flows down this valley, but now sand
dunes stretch across it. On either side there is a wall of vertical rock of orange sandstone, and here and
there at the foot of the wall are found springs that afford sweet water.
We push our way far up the valley to the foot of the Gray Cliffs, and by a long detour find our way to the
summit. Here again we find that wonderful scenery of naked white rocks carved into great round bosses
and domes. Looking off to the north we can see vermilion and pink cliffs, crowned with forests, while
below us to the south stretch the dunes and red-lands of the Vermilion Cliff region, and far away we can
see the opposite wall of the Grand Canyon. In the middle of the afternoon we descend into the canyon
valley and hurriedly ride, down to the mouth of the canyon, then follow the trail of the pack train, for we
are to camp with the party to-night. We find it at the Navajo Well. As we approach in the darkness the
camp fire is a cheerful sight. The Navajo Well is a pool in the sand, the sands themselves lying in a basin,
with naked, smooth rocks all about on which the rains are caught and by which the sand in the basin is
filled with water, and by digging into the sand this sweet water is found.
September 25. - At sunrise Mr. Hamblin and I part from the train once more, taking with us
|
