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J. W. Powell - Canyons of the Colorado
Clothed only in loincloth, each one seizes a snake, and a rattlesnake is preferred if there are enough of
them for all. It is managed in this way: The snake is teased with the feather wand and his attention
occupied by one man, while another, standing near, at a favorable moment seizes the snake just, back of
the head. Then he puts the snake in his mouth, holding it across, so that the head protrudes on one side
and the body on the other, which coils about his hand and arm. A few inches of the head and neck are
free, and with this free portion the snake struggles, squirming in the air; but the attention of the snake is
constantly occupied by the attendant who carries the wand. Then the men of the priest order carrying the
snakes in their mouths arrange themselves in a line in the court and move in a procession several times
about the court, and then engage in a dance. After the ceremony all of the snakes are carried to the plain
and given their freedom.
This snake dance was not witnessed at the time of the first visit, but an account of it was then obtained,
such as given above. It has since been witnessed by myself and by others, and carefully prepared
accounts of the ceremonies have been published by different persons.
At last our work at Walpi is done, on October 27, and we arrange to leave on the morrow.
CHAPTER XIV. TO ZUNI.
October 28. - To-day we leave the Province of Tusayan for a journey through the Navajo
country. There is quite an addition to the party now, for we have a number of Indians employed as
freighters. Their asses are loaded with heavy packs of the collections we have made in the various towns
of Tusayan. After a while we enter a beautiful canyon coming down from the east, and by noon reach a
spring, where we halt for refreshment. The poor little donkeys are thoroughly wearied, but our own
animals have had a long rest and have been well fed and are all fresh and active. On the rocks of this
canyon picture-writings are etched, and I try to get some account of them from the Indians, but fail.
After lunch we start once more. It is a halcyon day, and with a companion I leave the train and push on
for a view of the country. Away we gallop, my Indian companion and I, over the country toward a great
plateau which we can see in the distance. The Salahkai is covered with a beautiful forest. We have an
exhilarating ride. When the way becomes stony and rough we must walk our horses. My Indian, who is
well mounted on a beautiful bay, is a famous rider. About his brow a kerchief is tied, and his long hair
rests on his back. He has keen black eyes and a beaked nose; about his neck he wears several dozen
strings of beads, made of nacre shining shells, and little tablets of turkis are perforated and strung on
sinew cord; in his ears he has silver rings, and his wrists are covered with silver bracelets. His leggings
are black velvet, the material for which he has bought from some trader; his moccasins are tan-colored
and decorated with silver ornaments, and the trappings of his horse are decorated in like manner. He
carries his rifle with as much ease as if it were a cane, and rides with wonderful dexterity. We get on with
jargon and sign language pretty well. At night, after a long ride, I descend to the foot of the mesa, and
near a little lake I find the camp. The donkey train has not arrived, but soon one after another the Indians
come in with their packs, and with white men, Oraibi Indians, Walpi Indians, and Navajos, a good party
is assembled.
October 29. - We have a long ride before us to-day, for we must reach old Fort Defiance. I stay
with the train in order to keep everything moving, for we expect to travel late in the night. On the way no
water is found, but in mid-afternoon the trail leads to the brink of a canyon, and the Indians tell me there
is water below; so the animals are unpacked and taken down the cliff in a winding way among the rocks,
where they are supplied with water. Again we start; night comes on and we are still in the forest; the trail
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