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John Benwell - An Englishman's Travels in America
the satisfaction to find that the vessel was adrift. This was a great relief to us, for had a gale sprung up in
the night, which was closing in, we must have taken to the boat, and abandoned the vessel, a perilous
undertaking, from which we all felt too happy to have escaped. I was told by the captain that the coast
here abounds with hidden sand-banks of the description we had encountered. This, perhaps, together with
the poor harbour accommodation in Florida, accounts for the small size of the vessels which generally
trade there.
The desolate look of the coast from the deck of the vessel, did not convey to my mind a very favourable
impression of the country, and the hostile disposition of the Indians tended not a little to excite
forebodings of evil, that at one time almost induced me to abandon my intention, and return to the north.
These apprehensions were, however, allayed by the representations of the captain of the vessel, who
stated that the Indians seldom attempted to molest armed parties, and that an understanding with the
government was daily expected, through the recent capture of some important sachems or chiefs, under
whose influence and leadership hostilities had been carried on. This information reassured me, and I
determined to proceed, although I found afterwards that it was almost entirely a misrepresentation,
which, however, I cannot believe was wilful, as the captain would have had me for a passenger on the
return voyage.
I soon after landed in a boat from the shore. The bay or harbour of St. Marks is not attractive, neither is
the town, which presents a desolate appearance. The houses or stores are chiefly of wood, painted white,
the venetian blinds of the houses being green, as in most parts of the United States. The hotel-entrances
were crowded with loungers, in snow-white clothing, large Leghorn or palmetto hats, and fancy-coloured
shirts, who smoked cigars incessantly, and generally discussed with energy the inroads of the Indians, or
other leading topics of the day. The houses are low and irregularly built, and the appearance of the whole
place and its inhabitants, as far as I could see, wore a forbidding aspect, and was indicative of anything
but prosperity.
My next stage was to Tallahassee by railroad, through a desolate-looking country, whose soil was sand,
and whose vegetation looked stunted, presenting little to cheer the senses, or call forth remark; in fact,
everything around told of a country whose centre is flourishing, but whose frontiers are a wilderness. Just
before we started, a well-dressed negro, apparently a footman or butler, applied for a seat in the carriage.
He was told by the station-keeper, that there was no conveyance for "niggers" this train, and he must wait
for the following one. He at first disputed his right to refuse him a passage in the carriage, which roused
the ire of the station-keeper, who threatened to kick him if he was not soon off. This seemed to awe him,
for he quietly left the station, muttering, however, as he went, his intention of reporting the circumstance
to Colonel Gambole. This caused me to make some inquiry about the colonel whose name he had
mentioned, and who I learned was his master. I was also informed that no negroes in that district were so
insolent, owing to the indulgence with which all his hands were treated. I could see, however, that the
negro had different men to deal with here, and if he had not taken his departure, he would, without a
doubt, have been kicked or felled to the ground, on the least further provocation - a course pursued
without hesitation in cases where a negro assumes anything like equality in the south.
CHAPTER V.
"The fragrant birch above him hung
Her tassels in the sky,
And many a vernal blossom sprung,
And nodded careless by.
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